Tag: distance 8-11 km

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Kladnitsa – Selimitsa – Ostritsa – Kladnitsa

Starting Coordinates: 42.5685, 23.19619

Distance: 8.2 km

Elevation Gain: 475 m

Time: 3¼ hours

Difficulty: moderate-hard

Transport: by car, or by minibus

  • The start of the ecopath, next to the road that leads from Kladnitsa to Kladnitsa Monastery and Selimitsa Hut.
  • At the start of the walk, the river has three crosses fixed in the stone.
  • Three successive bridges take you across the river.
  • Having crossed the river again, you reach a small clearing. Keep straight.
  • The path rejoins the road to Selimitsa Hut and continues up some steps on the other side.
  • Selimitsa Hut, which offers food.
  • The track enters the forest.
  • The picnic hut on the left.
  • One of the boulders that line the route.
  • The stone run.
  • The view of Studena Reservoir.
  • The path reaches the top. Ostritsa Hut is on the right.
  • Ostritsa Hut.
  • The descent back to where you started.
  • The depiction of the Trinity on the ceiling of the nave in Kladnitsa Monastery.

Kladnitsa, with a population of little more than a thousand, is the highest village on the west side of Vitosha. To get there by car, you must take the road from Sofia to Pernik, which passes through Knyazhevo and Vladaya before arriving at the crest of the hill and descending on the other side. As it reaches the bottom, in a village called Dragichevo, there is a set of traffic lights. Turn left here (it is signposted for Rudartsi, 4 km, and Kladnitsa, 9 km). If you continue straight, you will reach the motorway for Greece, the A3, and then Pernik.

In 1.5 kilometres, you enter Rudartsi. Stay on the same road. In another 4 kilometres, you enter Kladnitsa. 400 metres after entering Kladnitsa, the road veers left, signposted for Kladnitsa Monastery and Selimitsa Hut, and takes you uphill. After one kilometre, you leave the village of Kladnitsa and immediately enter Vitosha Nature Park. Keep going for another 500 metres. As the road turns left, you will see the start of the ecopath. 200 metres after the start of the ecopath is the slip road that leads to Kladnitsa Monastery. There is a very small area to park your car just after the start of the ecopath, otherwise people tend to park on the verge. It can be quite busy at weekends in summer.

There is a minibus that goes to Kladnitsa from the Russian Monument in Sofia once an hour, during the daytime. The 21 bus also goes there from Pernik. The buses stop in the main square in Kladnitsa, where the chitalishte (community centre) is. From here, you need to head eastwards, and soon the road will take you out of Kladnitsa and into Vitosha Nature Park.

The ecopath is known as the “path of health”. It leads straight up from the road. The river should be on your right. In 200 metres, you cross the river on three separate bridges and continue on the other side. In another 200 metres, you again cross the river, but this time the path leaves the river behind and soon reaches a clearing with a bench between two tree trunks. You continue straight here (signposted for Cherni Vrah and Selimitsa Hut). In 200 metres, a small bridge takes you over a stream, and you become aware of the road you were on up on your left. The path crosses the same stream again, and 1.1 kilometres after the start of the ecopath you rejoin the road at Selimitsa Hut. There is a car park further down on your left.

The path continues on the other side of the road, up some steps, and in a couple of minutes you arrive at Selimitsa Hut, which is a popular place for eating. If you don’t have food with you, you want to bear in mind that Ostritsa Hut is not working, so this is your only chance to grab a bite to eat on the route.

The path heads behind the hut (where the kitchens are) and joins a track. At the track, turn left and continue climbing past some wonderfully located houses. 300 metres after the hut, the track veers right and enters the forest. This track will now take you to Ostritsa Hut, the highest point on this walk.

I have marked the walk as “moderate-hard” not because of the distance, but because of the elevation gain (475 metres over 4.2 kilometres). You are constantly climbing. I always think it’s a question of not being anxious to arrive somewhere, but simply going at your own pace, putting one foot in front of the other. That’s all anyone does, isn’t it? And humans have achieved great things by putting one foot in front of the other and being patient.

Very soon on the left is a picnic hut, with a small fountain behind it (only trickling water). Fifteen minutes after the picnic hut, there is a stone run, one of those moraine rivers that are so characteristic of Vitosha (and of the Falklands, apparently). Another 200 metres, and there is a wonderful view to the south-west of Studena Reservoir. Another ten minutes, and there is another small fountain on the right, this one without any water. One more kilometre, and you reach the top, with Ostritsa Hut on your right. You are now not far from the walk that begins at Ofeliite.

Unfortunately, Ostritsa Hut doesn’t work, but I still ate my lunch, sitting by the hut and the grassy slope that leads to Ostritsa Peak. I then headed back down the way I had come. What makes this path so worthwhile is the beauty of the path itself, which is mostly shaded, the views to the south-west, and the numerous boulders that line the route. You are also on a less frequented part of the mountain.

Back at the bottom, do make time to visit Kladnitsa Monastery, dedicated to St Nicholas, which is only 200 metres further up the road and has a very distinctive depiction of the Trinity on the ceiling of the nave.

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Chuypetlovo – Struma River – Chuypetlovo

Starting Coordinates: 42.51695, 23.24386

Distance: 9.6 km

Elevation Gain: 350 m

Time: 3½ hours

Difficulty: moderate

Transport: by car

  • 300 metres after the sign for Chuypetlovo, the road ends at a green building and a fountain.
  • Take the shared trail heading north out of the village, with the river on your left.
  • The trail leaving the village.
  • Moraines to the left of the path.
  • The bridge over the river Struma.
  • The river Struma heading south.
  • The path climbing through beech and birch forest.
  • And emerging onto an open area of tall grass.
  • Be careful! The path divides, with the right branch going to Kladnitsa. You want the left branch.
  • A tree in the grass.
  • The path heads south towards a hill, behind which is Bosnek.
  • A wild deer.
  • Before the hill, go left (at post 11 or 12, it doesn’t matter).
  • The view back towards the summit.
  • The path descends back into the village.
  • And passes the Church of St Petka.
  • In a couple of minutes, a turning on the left takes you back to the square where you started.

Chuypetlovo is the first village on the course of the river Struma as it heads south from its source at the peak, Cherni Vrah, to flow into the Aegean in northern Greece. This alone makes it very special. It also offers wonderful views of the summit, but from the other side – the south side of the mountain. Conversely, this means that this little village can be seen from the summit if you head to the rocks a little south of Cherni Vrah hut.

The only way to get to Chuypetlovo, really, is by car. It takes about an hour from Sofia, and the distance is about fifty kilometres. You take the road from Sofia to Pernik. When you reach the large roundabout before Pernik, go left on the A3 motorway in the direction of Greece (Kulata). You travel south on the motorway for twelve kilometres, going past Studena. You then turn off the motorway at the sign for Bosnek (the village before Chuypetlovo), go under the motorway, turn left and follow this road for another thirteen kilometres. As you go through Bosnek, there is a dink in the road – it veers left and then right – but as long as you stay on this road, you won’t get lost. 300 metres after the sign for Chuypetlovo, the road ends at a green building and a fountain. Park the car here.

You are now going to walk up the east side of the river Struma and return to the village along the west side, so you want to take the shared trail to the left of the green building, a sort of continuation of the road you were on, but now a dirt track signposted for Chuypetlovo 1 and Kladnitsa. Follow this trail out of the village, with the river on your left (even if you can’t see it, the river should be on your left). In ten minutes, you will leave the village through trees, and in another ten minutes you will come out into the open, with moraines scattered to the left of the path. Keep heading north basically, and in another twenty minutes you will reach a bridge over the Struma. This is a perfect place to have a picnic and to enjoy the river’s company since you’re not going to see much more of it until you come back into the village.

Having taken your rest, cross the bridge. The path continues on your left and then heads north as it climbs. After twenty minutes of walking through forest, you come out onto an open area of tall grass with fantastic views towards the summit on your right and a succession of lower hills on your left. After ten minutes, a path joins from the right and then leaves on the left. You can ignore it. After another five minutes, the path you are on divides (there is a sign “Chuypetlovo Village Horse ride” pointing back the way you came). You must be careful here because if you go right (north-west), you will end up in the village of Kladnitsa. Go left (south-west).

After ten minutes, a path goes over the hill on your right. Ignore it. At the black and yellow post 4, a path joins from the right. Just before post 6, a path diverges on the right. Ignore these turnings. Five minutes after post 6, a path diverges on the left. Keep going right, that is due south, and in ten minutes a hill will appear in front of you. The path you are on goes over this hill, in the direction of Bosnek. You must take the path on your left to return to Chuypetlovo, that is at post 11 or 12 (it doesn’t matter which, 11 is a shortcut, 12 is a right angle), towards the trees to the left of the hill. You should now be heading south-east.

This path offers wonderful views of the summit and the radar station on top (which looks like a golf ball). After twenty minutes, it begins to descend and soon enters forest. Another ten minutes, and you are back in the village. You pass the Church of St Petka on a rise to the left of the path and then cross the Struma once again. Immediately after this crossing, there is a sign for Yarlovo and Bosnek going straight. Turn left here, and in no time at all you will be back at the square where you started.

This walk offers a valuable opportunity to see the Struma in its infancy. It also gives you a different perspective on the mountain (in particular, Cherni Vrah, the summit). These two factors, for me, make it one of the nicest walks on the mountain. We even saw a wild deer, and that has only happened to me on the mountain twice in twenty years (the other time was at Kominite)!

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Aleko – Cherni Vrah – Goli Vrah – Aleko

Starting Coordinates: 42.5822, 23.2922

Distance: 9.0 km

Elevation Gain: 470 m

Time: 3¾ hours

Difficulty: hard

Transport: by car, by gondola lift, or by bus no. 66 to the last stop

  • Approaching Aleko on the road from Dragalevtsi, with Malak Rezen peak clearly visible.
  • The top of the gondola lift that goes to Aleko from the district of Simeonovo.
  • Aleko hut.
  • The fountain on the south side of Aleko hut, where the path to Cherni Vrah begins.
  • The path as it zigzags up the mountain.
  • The path higher up.
  • A view back to Aleko, with Sofia in the distance.
  • The path where it joins the slip road from Goli Vrah (an easier, but longer route).
  • After 450 metres, a path leaves this slip road (at post 39) and heads directly to the summit.
  • The peat reserve on the right, with a large moraine field spilling into it.
  • The hut at the summit.
  • With the large bell.
  • A view further south, with Rila mountain in the distance.
  • The path heading back to the slip road, with Sofia in the distance.
  • The slip road to Goli Vrah.

Aleko is named after the Bulgarian writer Aleko Konstantinov, creator of the fictional character Bay Ganyo, who encouraged tourism in Bulgaria. It is one of the most popular destinations on Vitosha – because it takes you within striking distance (3.2 km) of the summit, because it boasts several ski slopes, because it is at the top of the gondola lift from Simeonovo, and because it is about as high as you can get on the mountain with a normal vehicle. It is the first place I visited as a tourist, before I started walking on the mountain as a hiker.

There are three ways to reach Aleko. By car, you take the road that climbs the mountain from Dragalevtsi and continue to where the road ends, a distance of just over 15 kilometres. By public transport, you take bus no. 66 and continue to the last stop, opposite a hotel called Moreni, and then walk the final 700 metres before coming to the end of the road, after passing a large moraine field on your right. Or there is a gondola lift that climbs the mountain from Simeonovo, though this lift normally only works at weekends.

Once at Aleko, you have a choice of walking to the summit, or you can take a chair lift (run by the same company that runs the Simeonovo gondola lift). This chair lift used to depart directly opposite Aleko hut and climb the peak in front of you, Malak Rezen, but it is no longer operative, so you must now take the path that heads east in the direction of Bistritsa village and, on reaching the ski slope Vitoshko Lale (where there is a chair lift), take a path on your right that climbs to the middle station. This lift also only works at weekends, but it is relatively inexpensive. It is just under a kilometre from Aleko hut to the lift.

To walk to the summit, look for the fountain on the south side of Aleko hut. To the left of this fountain, there is a path that climbs the mountain. This is the path you want. It skirts the disused chair lift on your left, with Malak Rezen peak also on your left. You have a choice of choosing a more direct route, or zigzagging slightly (following the red markers), which makes the ascent easier. From Aleko hut to where the path joins the slip road from Goli Vrah is an elevation gain of 260 metres and takes approximately forty minutes. The views back to Sofia, of Malak Rezen peak to the south, Ushite and the peat reserve to the north (see the walk Ushite), are wonderful and well worth the effort.

When you get to the top, you join the slip road coming from Goli Vrah. Many people choose to access the summit by means of this slip road, which is a dirt track and leaves the main road from Dragalevtsi 900 metres before the road ends at Aleko (200 metres before the last bus stop), taking a more circuitous route. When you join the slip road, turn left. Follow the road for 450 metres until you reach a black and yellow post with the number 39 on it. Here, the road continues to the radar station on your left, while a path leads directly to the summit in front of you. It takes half an hour on this path to reach the summit, where there is a hut with a bunch of antennae on top of it. You can see the radar station (a white golf ball) on your left and the valuable peat reserve on your right.

When you reach the hut at the summit, there is a large bell inside an iron structure. It was the tradition, when I first came here, to ring the bell, but even if that is no longer possible, you can still touch the bell with your wedding ring (if you have one) and it will issue a small sound in recognition of your achievement. After all, it’s not every day you make it to the summit of a mountain. The weather can be windy up here, so it’s good to pack something warm. The hut serves food. Beyond the hut is a large grassy area and stunning views of the other side. You can see Rila mountain in the distance on a clear day. You may want to linger here for a while, enjoying the views. It’s also worth walking south-east for half an hour, in the direction of Skoparnika peak. There are unusual rock formations which look suspiciously like Picasso paintings.

When you’ve had enough, follow the black and yellow posts back down towards the slip road, rejoin the slip road for 450 metres, and then you can either descend directly towards Aleko the way you came up (at post 60), or you can continue on the slip road, a longer but easier route which will take you alongside the peat reserve all the way back to the main road, where you will have to turn right in order to complete the last few hundred metres. The route via Goli Vrah is about twice as long as the more direct route to Aleko.

This is a hard walk – it’s not so easy to climb a summit – but the views at the top in all directions are stunning. This is also where the magnificent Struma River has its source (this river flows into the Aegean in northern Greece, next to the ancient settlement of Amphipolis; if you drive to Greece on the motorway from Sofia, you follow the course of this mythical river). Please note: Struma River begins on Vitosha (not on Rila or Pirin, as might be expected). It is not the only river to do this.

The following map shows where we parked the car (the green circle). We then walked south to Aleko hut, took a detour to see the chair lift on Vitoshko Lake, returned to the hut, zigzagged up the mountain to Cherni Vrah; on our return, we decided to take the slip road back to Goli Vrah, where we rejoined the main road, turned right and walked back to the car. Please bear in mind that Aleko can be busy at weekends.

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Goli Vrah – Ushite – Kamen Del Peak – Bor – Goli Vrah

Starting Coordinates: 42.59034, 23.29317

Distance: 11.0 km

Elevation Gain: 395 m

Time: 4½ hours

Difficulty: moderate-hard

Transport: by car, or by bus no. 66 to the last stop

  • The slip road to the top of the Dragalevtsi chair lift, Goli Vrah, 200 metres before the last stop on the 66 bus route.
  • The top of the chair lift.
  • The path right, marked by black and yellow posts, across the peat reserve.
  • The peat reserve, with Ushite and Chernata Skala in the distance.
  • The peat reserve.
  • The brightly coloured flowers.
  • The Ushite shelter.
  • Kamen Del peak.
  • The view of Sofia from Kamen Del peak.
  • As the path descends towards Bor, the TV tower at Kopitoto is visible.
  • In a short while, the path enters forest.
  • It passes a hut and a fountain.
  • Bor mountain hut (inactive).
  • Immediately after Bor mountain hut, there is a small bridge over Boyana River, a nice place to rest.
  • On the return, the views from the Ushite shelter towards the summit, Cherni Vrah, are spectacular.

Part of this walk is the same as for Kominite, along the plateau next to the top of the Dragalevtsi chair lift, Goli Vrah. It takes you all the way across the peat reserve and down to Bor mountain hut, which features in the walks Planinets and Zlatni Mostove. It offers the chance to climb a peak, Kamen Del, the peak which is most visible from the centre of Sofia, next to Ushite, and affords wonderful views of the city itself.

If you are travelling by public transport, you take bus no. 66 to the end of the line and then walk back 200 metres to the slip road to Goli Vrah. By car, you take the road up the mountain from Dragalevtsi village. From the cobbled square at the centre of Dragalevtsi, you take the road in the far corner and drive for 14.2 kilometres, past the turning for the “Vodenitsata” restaurant, past the car park behind Dragalevtsi Monastery, under the Dragalevtsi chair lift, past the middle station on the Dragalevtsi chair lift (Bay Krastyo), past the turning for the ski slope Vitoshko Lale, until you get to the slip road that takes you to the top of the chair lift, Goli Vrah. If you find yourself in Aleko, where the road ends, you have gone too far and need to drive back a short distance. The slip road is on the right, 200 metres before the final bus stop.

Many people use this slip road to access the summit, Cherni Vrah, instead of going to the summit from Aleko, which is nearer, because the slip road climbs more gradually whereas the climb from Aleko is very steep (there is a chair lift). The slip road takes you in five minutes past the top of the Dragalevtsi chair lift, Goli Vrah, and in another five minutes you come to the peat reserve on your right and a path marked with black and yellow posts. Turn right here (it is signposted for the Ushite shelter, “zaslon Ushite”) and follow the black and yellow posts for the next forty-five minutes. You will notice a slight springiness in your step because of the peat, it buoys you up. The views behind you to the summit, Cherni Vrah, right to Sofia, and straight ahead to Ushite (“The Ears”) with Chernata Skala (“Black Rock”) to the left of it are all wonderful. So is the sense that you are crossing a valuable piece of land, the peat reserve, full of grasses and brightly coloured flowers.

The path from the slip road starts at post number 30. In ten minutes (post 50), there is a path on the right going back to Goli Vrah. Keep going straight. In another ten minutes (post 64), there is a path on the right. Ignore it. In another ten minutes (post 89), there is a path going right to the Kominite Climbing Area. This features in the walk to Kominite. Keep going. In another ten minutes (post 108), you reach the Ushite shelter on your left, with Ushite behind it. Immediately after you have left the shelter behind, another peak, Kamen Del, becomes visible to your right, overlooking Sofia, a Bulgarian flag flying on top. This is a popular destination at weekends during summer.

The path you are on, with the black and yellow posts, will take you all the way to Bor mountain hut, but it is worth making a diversion to climb Kamen Del peak. So five minutes after the Ushite shelter (post 116), take the path on the right in the direction of the peak, which you will reach after ten minutes. Enjoy the fabulous views over Sofia! Lots of people stay here to admire the landscape, the valley with Sofia and the airport, Pancharevo (with the lake) and Bistritsa to the right, the Balkan mountain in the distance. If at this point you feel you have walked far enough, it is perfectly possible to turn around here and retrace your steps. Otherwise, come down from the peak, return to the path with the black and yellow posts (you can rejoin this path at post 121 instead of returning to post 116 by taking a path on the right as you come down from the peak).

Once you are back on the path with the black and yellow posts, it will begin to descend and soon it will enter forest. Forty minutes after Kamen Del peak, you pass a hut and a fountain on the left. Immediately after this hut and fountain, the path forks. Keep left, join the tarmac road and in five minutes you will be at Bor mountain hut, which is not active. If you keep going straight, after the mountain hut, you will immediately come to a small bridge over Boyana River, which is a lovely place to sit and rest. In the not so distant future, this small river will become Boyana Waterfall, but that’s still in the future.

Then simply return the way you came, taking the same path (signposted for Platoto and Aleko Hut). On the way back, when you emerge from the forest after half an hour, the path divides. It doesn’t matter which fork you take since they have the same destination, but I usually follow the fork with the black and yellow post next to it. That way, I know I’m going in the right direction. In another ten minutes (post 120), the climb ceases and, as you reach the Ushite shelter on your return, the views over the plateau towards Cherni Vrah are truly stunning. At post 50, there is the option of taking a slightly shorter route to Goli Vrah, but I’m a stickler for tradition and prefer to stay on the path with the posts. At post 30, you rejoin the slip road. Turn left, and in ten minutes you will be back at the main road where you started. Like all walks that go and return by the same route, this walk can easily be shortened by turning back earlier. What I like about continuing to Bor mountain hut is that it links this walk with two earlier walks, Planinets and Zlatni Mostove, and I get a better understanding of the mountain (just as the walks from Kopitoto and Bay Krastyo also meet in the middle, but lower down the mountain).

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Dragalevtsi Monastery – Aleko Waterfall – Simeonovo Lakes – Dragalevtsi Monastery

Starting Coordinates: 42.61953, 23.29827

Distance: 10.4 km

Elevation Gain: 320 m

Time: 4 hours

Difficulty: Moderate

Transport: by car, or by bus no. 66 to the stop for Dragalevtsi Monastery

  • The start of the walk at the southern corner of the Dragalevtsi Monastery car park.
  • After 50 metres, turn left. Do not go up the mountain!
  • Seven minutes later, the path divides. Keep left.
  • One of the bridges across Dragalevtsi River.
  • The disused Dragalevtsi chair lift.
  • The path is in forest most of the way.
  • The fountain with an icon of St Nicholas.
  • Approaching the rocky outcrop.
  • The rocky outcrop.
  • The view towards Sofia.
  • Aleko Waterfall.
  • In another 2.5 km, you will come to an abandoned shelter. Turn left here for Simeonovo Lakes.
  • Lake no. 1.
  • Lake no. 2.
  • Lake no. 3.
  • Lake no. 4 (or the other way around, depending on where you started).

Two walks start from the car park which is above and behind Dragalevtsi Monastery – the walk to Boyana Lake, and this walk to Simeonovo Lakes. They both follow the low-altitude circular trail that goes around the mountain at more or less the same elevation – that is, without climbing or descending the mountain a great deal. But while Boyana Lake really is a lake, Simeonovo Lakes are not what I would call lakes. They are man-made ponds (we even spotted fish in one of them), but they are still very attractive and a popular picnic spot above the district of Simeonovo.

To reach the car park above/behind Dragalevtsi Monastery, you must access the mountain via Dragalevtsi. If you are travelling by bus no. 66, you will get out at the stop for Dragalevtsi Monastery. By car, leave the central square, drive up the cobbled road in the far corner, ignore the turning left to the “Vodenitsata” restaurant after 1.5 km and continue straight for another 3 km. Here is the bus stop for Dragalevtsi Monastery, and on your left, partially hidden by the trees, is a car park with the monastery behind it. Park here.

Go the southern corner of the car park and take the path that goes up the mountain, but only for 50 metres. Immediately join the path going left. This is the low-altitude circular trail. The monastery is again on your left, and the road is now behind you. This path will take you all the way to Simeonovo Lakes. It will be crisscrossed by other paths going up and down the mountain, by bike trails, by leafy hollows, by dry riverbeds, but don’t be led astray. If you have started climbing or descending more than usual, then you have gone the wrong way. Just stay on the path for 5¼ kilometres. It will take you across Dragalevtsi River, under a disused chair lift, through beautiful beech forest, past a rocky outcrop with a wonderful view of Sofia, past a waterfall, and then deliver you to a picturesque spot with tables in the shade. What more could you possibly ask for?

But, like life, just when you think things are going smoothly, a problem arises. The path divides after seven minutes. You didn’t want a choice, but you’ve been given one and are going to have to make it. Keep left (the path is signposted for Simeonovo and Bistritsa). Do not start to climb! The path on the right, signposted for Momina Skala and Kamen Del, may look level, but don’t be fooled – before you know it, you’ll be going up the mountain!

So keep left, and you will become aware of Dragalevtsi River, a river that features heavily in the walk Bay Krastyo-Kikish, on your left. In a couple of minutes, the path turns a corner, and you cross the river by means of two bridges and a walkway. Keep going on this path, ignoring any turnings on the left or on the right, and in another ten minutes you come to the disused Dragalevtsi chair lift (see the walk Bay Krastyo-Kikish). Keep going straight, and in another fifteen minutes you come to a most welcome fountain and bench. There is normally an icon of the Virgin Mary above the fountain, but this time it was St Nicholas. No matter. The water is very refreshing.

Keep going, ignore the dry riverbeds and bike trails crisscrossing the path, and in twenty minutes you will reach one of my favourite places on the mountain – a rocky outcrop I have been visiting for twenty years. Look left, and you will have a wonderful view of Sofia. You can sit on the rocks on either side of the path and have a rest.

But a surprise awaits you! In another 100 metres, continuing on the same path, is Aleko Waterfall, created by Skakavitsa River. This is one of two popular waterfalls on the mountain (the other is Boyana). You are now about halfway to Simeonovo Lakes and are perfectly entitled to decide you have come far enough and to turn around. Simeonovo Lakes is another 2.5 km from here (45 minutes), so it’s up to you.

If you wish to continue, you just keep going on the same low-altitude circular trail. You will come to a couple of benches – ignore the turnings left and right! Keep going straight (signposted for Bistritsa and Zheleznitsa), and half an hour after the waterfall you will come to an abandoned stone shelter which people use to light barbecues. Behind the shelter is the stream that forms the lakes. Go upstream (that is, turn right), and you will come to Buda, the destination of another walk. You want to go downstream (that is, turn left at the shelter) and follow the course of the stream. It will take you downhill to a total of four lakes. Wooden bridges crisscross the stream. It doesn’t matter which side you are on, as long as you are following the course of the stream. Having enjoyed the view and decided which lake you like best, simply climb back uphill to the stone shelter, turn right here, and take the low-altitude circular trail all the way back to Dragalevtsi Monastery and the car park.

Don’t underestimate the distance, though. This walk is more than ten kilometres, but can easily be shortened by turning back at the waterfall. Of course, Simeonovo Lakes can be approached more directly from Simeonovo itself (bus no. 67).

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Kopitoto – Momina Skala – Kamen Del – Kikish – Kopitoto

Starting coordinates: 42.6356, 23.24779

Distance: 9.9 km

Elevation Gain: 330 m

Time: 3¼ hours

Difficulty: Moderate

Transport: by car, or by bus no. 63 to the Dendrarium

  • Kopitoto Hotel.
  • The path starts on the right of the hotel.
  • You are directly submerged into forest.
  • Twenty minutes after the hotel, there is a crossroads. Go left…
  • … but only after making a small detour!
  • Momina Skala – the large, open field.
  • Momina Skala – the hut in the trees.
  • Boyana River as it leaves the hut behind.
  • Esperanto hut.
  • Kamen Del hut.
  • The view of Sofia from Kamen Del.
  • A small moraine river between Kamen Del and Kikish.
  • Kikish hut.
  • Boyana River between Momina Skala and the waterfall.
  • The view of Sofia from the path back to Kopitoto.
  • When the path ends, go right and in ten minutes you will be back at the hotel.

This was my first walk on Vitosha back in 2003, so it’s a very special walk for me. It takes you to the three mountain huts that overlook Sofia from the front of Vitosha: Esperanto, Kamen Del, and Kikish. There are huts further up or around the mountain, but these are the first I visited.

When you look at the mountain from Sofia, there are certain things you notice. One of them is the golf ball on top of the mountain, which is in fact a radar station on the second highest peak of Vitosha, Golyam Rezen. But unmissable in the west is the large TV tower (186 m) and, next to it, a hotel building, both named after the rocky outcrop they stand on: Kopitoto (“The Hoof”). This walk starts at the hotel. To get there by car, you take the road through Boyana (which is actually a continuation of the main thoroughfare heading south of the centre, Bulgaria Boulevard – after you pass under the ring road, this road affords excellent views of the tower and hotel) and continue until you reach the Dendrarium on your right. There is then a turning on your left, which ends at the hotel after 2.7 kilometres. If travelling by bus no. 63, you will have to get off at the Dendrarium and walk the rest of the way. After 1.3 kilometres, you will pass a turning on your right to Planinets, the start of another walk, and after another kilometre you will pass the TV tower on your left before reaching the hotel in another 400 metres.

What makes this walk so special is the sudden transition from the world of concrete (the hotel) to the world of nature. You are literally immersed. The path starts on the right of the hotel. It immediately divides, a branch on the left heading back down to Boyana. Ignore this branch and continue up some steps, past a marble bench, into a wonderful avenue of trees that lean towards each other in the canopy, forming what looks like the nave of a cathedral. Large boulders are strewn on the right, resembling strange creatures. After approximately ten minutes, a path diverges on your left to Boyana Waterfall. This is the path you will return on. Ignore it for now and continue straight in the direction of Cherni Vrah/Momina Skala. After ten minutes, you will come to a crossroads. You want to go left here, still in the direction of Cherni Vrah/Momina Skala, but I’m going to let you in on a secret. A few metres away is my favourite spot on the mountain, a magical place I walked past for many years without knowing it was there. To get there, you need to make a small detour: at the crossroads, turn right towards Karpuzov Valog. Continue for a couple of minutes past some trees on your left until you reach a picnic table out in the open. Leave the path and walk to the picnic table. From here, you have the most outstanding view of south-west Bulgaria. My wife and I watched the sunset here one New Year’s Eve. It is such a peaceful place for a moment of mindfulness.

Now go back to where you were – the crossroads – but this time go left in the direction of Cherni Vrah/Momina Skala. After about five minutes, you will hear Boyana River, the river that forms Boyana Waterfall further down, on your left. In another ten minutes, you will reach Momina Skala, a large, open field with tables and shelters, a restaurant and large antenna, which features in many of these walks. Skirt the lefthand side of the field, leaving it behind you, and descend to Momina Skala hut in the trees. The river is in front of you. There is a small bridge, which you need to cross.

A path on your right goes uphill to Cherni Vrah. It is possible to reach the last of the mountain huts on this walk, Kikish, more directly by taking this path and then a left fork that goes to Kikish via Sredets, but we are going to take the path on the left that goes downhill and is signposted for all three mountain huts and Boyana Waterfall. In five minutes, the path divides. Go right, again in the direction of the three huts. After five minutes, a path joins from the left. This is the path you will go back on, but keep going downhill and in five minutes you will reach the first of the huts, Esperanto. It is currently abandoned and a little overgrown. There is a swing attached to a tree.

Keep going on the same path and in ten minutes you will come to the second hut, Kamen Del. The view of Sofia from here is memorable. The hut itself is friendly and offers good food. It’s a perfect place to take some refreshment. I went one rainy day and was incredibly grateful for the free herb tea that was served with every meal. If you feel you have gone far enough, you can now turn around and head back in the direction of Kopitoto.

The last hut, Kikish, is another twenty minutes away on the same path. After ten minutes, the path from Momina Skala via Sredets joins from the right. In another five minutes, there is a small moraine river on your right, and soon the hut itself appears. The reason for going this far is to connect the dots – another walk from Bay Krastyo (Dragalevtsi) approaches Kikish from the other direction, so you will have covered most of the front of the mountain. It’s up to you. Continuing to Kikish will add another 45 minutes to your walk.

Leaving Kikish, return to Kamen Del and then Esperanto, but be careful you don’t take the path on the left that goes to Momina Skala via Sredets. Five minutes after you walk back past Esperanto, again avoid the path to Momina Skala on your left (the path you came on). In a few more minutes, another path on your left leads to Momina Skala, while a path on the right leads to Boyana Waterfall. Keep straight. You will soon cross Boyana River as it tumbles down towards the waterfall, little knowing (or perhaps knowing all too well) what lies in store for it.

Five minutes after the bridge, there is a grassy clearing and then a path, again signposted for Boyana Waterfall, on your right. It’s worth taking this path for just a hundred metres in order to admire the view of Sofia. Come back to the path you were on and follow it until it ends in another five minutes. This is the path you ignored when you left Kopitoto. Now turn right and in ten minutes you will be back at the hotel.