Kamena Vourla

In the distance

is the last

broken shard

home

The tallest

mountain of all

so faint

it almost merges

with the sky

People are not

aware

it’s coming

They swim

in the sea

drink coffee

think of supper

and things

that might have been

revisit their youth

the lessons learned

and not wanted again

You must become

a man

before you can become

a god-man

Christ in reverse

You must know

what it is to hurt

and be hurt

even when it is

undeserved

You stand in the morning

and turn

from the sun’s path

to where the sun

is pointing

That is your ascent

You are not alone

You might even find yourself

in company

like the parrots

in Porphyrios’s cage

nestling up to each other

their necks shaped

for this

Loss is hard

means sleeping with a stranger

the old shape

has gone

been stripped of its punctuation

it is no longer

surrounded by words

it is now a thought

waiting to be spoken

The old text is useless

it can only be recycled

or observed

The smell has gone

the adoration

the string of syllables

proffered

like bubbles in the ocean

The breath has returned

It is being held now

by the Alchemist himself

whose memory has no limit

who only ever ascribes

good intentions

to the languages he has learned

Language is our vehicle

our rocket to the stars

which are full stops

glowing

in the darkness

of our hearts

Sunday, 5 pm

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The Alchemist – icon of Christ in Athens Metropolitan Cathedral, dating from the late 1800s.

Aegina

We sit

on white slabs of stone

There are fewer of us

now

The seagulls

horizontal apostrophes

find this funny

or at least

they guffaw momentarily

it’s not easy

keeping punctuation afloat

airborne

and at the same time

keeping up with the boat

Loss

is a small chair

in the church

meant for a child

but the adults use them

Actually

they are quite comfortable

it’s nice

being closer to the floor

the perspective is different

The saint’s eyes

follow you

wherever you go

whatever you may

have thought you were

he knows

Hours of standing in church

that willingness to be there

to stay upright

even when the ship

lurches

That act of resolution

is all we are

is everything

The time passes

seems not to exist

I have experienced this

before

Ten minutes is

two hours

two hours

a gesture

kneeling on the floor

helping someone

unhook their chain

their cross

their anchor

A cross

is all that anchors you

to this world

I look up

The passengers are

even fewer

more whiteness

confronts my eyes

People are black words

time a blank page

waiting to be filled

Saturday, 10.15 am

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St Nectarios of Aegina

Piraeus

There is a sign

A man is running

towards some steps

that go down

An arrow

emanating from his chest

points him (you and me)

in that direction

though he is too big

for the stairs

which reach

up to his left arm

he rather looks

as if

he will collide

with the back of them

If he were to stand

on the stairs

where would they take him?

In a downward direction

Back to land

There is no suggestion

that the man

should climb up

to the blue sky

with nothing to hold

onto

The boat is silent

(apart from that hum)

it doesn’t take part

in the people’s conversations

shrieks screams

loud guffaws

or the dog’s bark

It is level with the horizon

the container ships

huts on stilts

for men who fish

on a lungful of air

more shards

the mirror here

in a better condition

almost complete

the force behind it

pushing it to meet

what will come

Friday, 4.15 pm

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Prokopi

Religion

is the combination

of time and eternity

movement and stillness

We are on board a ship

Even the chairs are slanted

(or is it the floor

that is slanted

and the chairs

that follow suit?)

We are a tray of buttons

of different colours

shapes and sizes

We lift the lid

and take them out

for a time

watch how they glint

in the early sunlight

As on a ferryboat

I am still

it is the boat that moves

but when we touch land

the roles are reversed

it is I who move

the boat is still

Religion

is the combination

of time and eternity

movement and stillness

Sometimes I am there

sometimes my mind wanders

my eye flies in the rafters

enters the folds of clothes

burns in the candlelight

like a piece of fluff

stray cotton

I grow smaller

and am glad

of the change

glad of the company

the gold mask

turned towards me

the skin charred

the teeth white

and sharp

I cling to the back of the chair

in front of me

and watch

the sea pass

Friday, 11 am

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Glyfa

The boat is like

an electrical wire

It hums

There is a wire also

on the horizon

a fuzzy white line

that marks the place

where sea meets land

or nothingness

Those broken shards again

some so old

they’ve almost become sky

What is comforting

in this passage

between two points?

The hum

with its regular crescendo

(the boat’s heartbeat)

knowing you are in the hands

of something bigger

which will still be here

tomorrow

plying the same route

the movement

and stillness

all in one

the dots of light

that reflect off the surface

like static

the cast-iron shadows

so well defined

the shadow of the thing

is clearer

easier to see

than reality

but I wouldn’t try

to hold on

The being on the way

in between brackets

that place in language

away from grand statements

where life is best lived

Thursday, 2 pm

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Kulata

The hills next to Kulata

are a broken mirror

each peak a shard

that has fallen

to the ground

lost its place

abdicated responsibility

The windmills are

little hairs

stuck under the glass

How they got there

how they lodged so fast

no one knows

The mirror itself

is the sun

an actress waiting

to go on stage

Her glow precedes her

Her cheeks flush

The light from

her dressing room

streaming through

the open door

warns of her imminent coming

You have barely

settled in your seat

and she is there

You realize you never actually

saw her

enter the stage

You saw she was coming

and then she was there

Someone spilt their coffee

abdicated responsibility

Suddenly they were not there

The coffee spread

like molten lava

reflecting

the new sunlight

and the cleaning lady

whose day had just begun

was left to mop up

the molten copper

precious sunlight

carelessly spilt

to give her work

This is what happens

when a drop of wonder

falls into our world

Thursday, 7 am

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Chuypetlovo – Struma River – Chuypetlovo

Starting Coordinates: 42.51695, 23.24386

Distance: 9.6 km

Elevation Gain: 350 m

Time: 3½ hours

Difficulty: moderate

Transport: by car


Chuypetlovo is the first village on the course of the river Struma as it heads south from its source at the peak, Cherni Vrah, to flow into the Aegean in northern Greece. This alone makes it very special. It also offers wonderful views of the summit, but from the other side – the south side of the mountain. Conversely, this means that this little village can be seen from the summit if you head to the rocks a little south of Cherni Vrah hut.

The only way to get to Chuypetlovo, really, is by car. It takes about an hour from Sofia, and the distance is about fifty kilometres. You take the road from Sofia to Pernik. When you reach the large roundabout before Pernik, go left on the A3 motorway in the direction of Greece (Kulata). You travel south on the motorway for twelve kilometres, going past Studena. You then turn off the motorway at the sign for Bosnek (the village before Chuypetlovo), go under the motorway, turn left and follow this road for another thirteen kilometres. As you go through Bosnek, there is a dink in the road – it veers left and then right – but as long as you stay on this road, you won’t get lost. 300 metres after the sign for Chuypetlovo, the road ends at a green building and a fountain. Park the car here.

You are now going to walk up the east side of the river Struma and return to the village along the west side, so you want to take the shared trail to the left of the green building, a sort of continuation of the road you were on, but now a dirt track signposted for Chuypetlovo 1 and Kladnitsa. Follow this trail out of the village, with the river on your left (even if you can’t see it, the river should be on your left). In ten minutes, you will leave the village through trees, and in another ten minutes you will come out into the open, with moraines scattered to the left of the path. Keep heading north basically, and in another twenty minutes you will reach a bridge over the Struma. This is a perfect place to have a picnic and to enjoy the river’s company since you’re not going to see much more of it until you come back into the village.

Having taken your rest, cross the bridge. The path continues on your left and then heads north as it climbs. After twenty minutes of walking through forest, you come out onto an open area of tall grass with fantastic views towards the summit on your right and a succession of lower hills on your left. After ten minutes, a path joins from the right and then leaves on the left. You can ignore it. After another five minutes, the path you are on divides (there is a sign “Chuypetlovo Village Horse ride” pointing back the way you came). You must be careful here because if you go right (north-west), you will end up in the village of Kladnitsa. Go left (south-west).

After ten minutes, a path goes over the hill on your right. Ignore it. At the black and yellow post 4, a path joins from the right. Just before post 6, a path diverges on the right. Ignore these turnings. Five minutes after post 6, a path diverges on the left. Keep going right, that is due south, and in ten minutes a hill will appear in front of you. The path you are on goes over this hill, in the direction of Bosnek. You must take the path on your left to return to Chuypetlovo, that is at post 11 or 12 (it doesn’t matter which, 11 is a shortcut, 12 is a right angle), towards the trees to the left of the hill. You should now be heading south-east.

This path offers wonderful views of the summit and the radar station on top (which looks like a golf ball). After twenty minutes, it begins to descend and soon enters forest. Another ten minutes, and you are back in the village. You pass the Church of St Petka on a rise to the left of the path and then cross the Struma once again. Immediately after this crossing, there is a sign for Yarlovo and Bosnek going straight. Turn left here, and in no time at all you will be back at the square where you started.

This walk offers a valuable opportunity to see the Struma in its infancy. It also gives you a different perspective on the mountain (in particular, Cherni Vrah, the summit). These two factors, for me, make it one of the nicest walks on the mountain. We even saw a wild deer, and that has only happened to me on the mountain twice in twenty years (the other time was at Kominite)!